Validation of the three-wave quasi-kinetic approximation for the spectral evolution in shallow water amg

Дата выхода публикации:Sat Mar 01 2003 12:00:00 GMT+0000 (Coordinated Universal Time)

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Аннотация

This paper aims at vali­dat­ing the three-wave quasi-kinetic appr­oxim­ation for the spec­tral evol­ution of weakly nonl­inear gravity waves in shallow water. The problem is inve­stig­ated using a one-dime­nsio­nal nume­rical wave prop­agat­ion model, form­ula­ted in the spec­tral repr­esen­tat­ion. This model incl­udes both a nonl­inear triad inte­ract­ions term and a wave brea­king diss­ipat­ion term. Some nume­rical tests were carried out in order to show the impo­rta­nce of using the triad nonl­inear term in wave prop­agat­ion spec­tral models, part­icul­arly to desc­ribe both beha­vior of the spec­tral inte­gral para­met­ers and of the spec­tral shape evol­ution in shallow water depth. Furt­herm­ore; a comp­ari­son against diff­erent set of expe­rime­ntal obse­rvat­ions was carried out. Comp­aring the nume­rical results with the expe­rime­ntal obse­rvat­ions made it poss­ible to show the mode­ling effi­cie­ncy of the three-wave quasi-kinetic appr­oxim­ation.